Mid-Century Kitchen Ideas

Six mid-century versions of the same real kitchen, all shot from the same spot.

Real kitchen before redesign: L-shaped birch laminate units with doorless upper shelves, grey worktop, white square tile splashback and three brass globe pendantsBefore

Most kitchen styles need a new kitchen. Mid-century needs a door. The look lives almost entirely in a flat slab front, warm wood and a long thin handle, and the kitchen in the photo above already has flat slab fronts. They are birch laminate rather than walnut, which is a colour problem, not a carcass problem. Replacement doors on the units that are already there get you most of the way for a weekend and a delivery. Past that the ladder is honest enough. Handles and paint are a Saturday. Doors are a weekend and a delivery. Worktop and splashback want a trade. Moving the sink or the hob wants a fitter, and at that point you are buying a kitchen, not a style. The six versions below sit on different rungs. One of them is a paint job.

See your own kitchen in Mid-Century style

Every render on this page is one real kitchen, redesigned. Point Inty at yours: it reads the layout from a single photo, then rebuilds it in Mid-Century and 200+ other styles. Your actual room, not a showroom.

Download on the App Store

Free to try. iPhone.

Questions

Do I have to replace the whole kitchen to get a mid-century look?
No, and for this style you mostly should not. The units above already have flat slab doors, which is the hard part. Oak and terracotta is a door swap on the carcasses that are already there. Sage paint does not even go that far: same fronts, sprayed, handles off and finger pulls routed in. Neither touches the plumbing.
What is the cheapest change that actually reads as mid-century?
Handles. Long thin bar pulls instead of the bowed chrome ones currently on those birch doors. A Saturday and a screwdriver, and it changes the line of every door in the room. Turquoise and white gloss is close to that plus colour you can carry: the toaster, the bowls, the pendant.
Does this work in a rental?
Turquoise and white gloss is the one that survives a tenancy, because its colour lives in objects rather than grouted to a wall. Primary-colour tile is the opposite. That splashback is fixed, it is a trade job to remove, and you will not be taking it with you when you go.
Will bold mid-century colour date badly?
Yes, so choose which surface takes the risk. Primary-colour tile puts it on a splashback you look at every time you boil a kettle and cannot undo without a tiler. Sage paint puts it on doors you can repaint over a weekend when you tire of it. Colour on something reversible ages better than colour on something grouted.
Does mid-century suit a small kitchen?
It was drawn for one. Flat slab fronts, no mouldings and long thin handles keep the sightlines clean, which is most of what makes a galley feel bigger than it is. The move to avoid in a dim room is the mustard ceiling in Oak and terracotta — its own caption admits it flattens a galley with one window.
What is the difference between mid-century and retro?
Mid-century is a furniture language — slab fronts, warm wood, thin handles — and it survives being quiet, which Sage paint proves. Retro is a decade worn openly: colour on the doors, a themed fridge, the year visible from the doorway. Primary-colour tile is this page drifting into retro, and the splashback is the tell.

Other kitchen styles

All kitchen ideas

The Mid-Century look in other rooms

Try mid-century in your kitchenDownload on the App Store